The Milk Street rule for fish: cook slowly, high season

Following on from his James Beard Award winning cookbook “Milk Street: Tuesday Nights” in 2018, Christopher Kimball’s latest book is “Milk Street: The New Rules”, which challenges us to rethink the way we cook.

Kimball is one of the co-founders of America’s Test Kitchen and in 2016 founded Boston-based Milk Street, which features a TV show, cooking school, and magazine. In the cookbook, he comes up with 75 new rules that he says will simplify time spent in the kitchen and at the same time improve results.

The rule for this steamed fish recipe is “Cook gently, season hard: a gentle, even heat is best to keep the delicate flesh of the fish tender.” Steaming is ideal because the heat surrounds the fish, cooking it from all sides without movement.

“Lean white fish has a mild flavor, so before we steam the fillets, we boldly season them with garlic, ginger, oyster sauce and sweet, fiery sriracha. For a little heat, drizzle the fish fillets with a drizzle of chili oil before sprinkling with green onions. Or sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds. Serve with steamed or sautéed greens and jasmine rice. Do not uncover the pot before 8 minutes of steaming have passed. Opening the lid releases steam and cools the pan.


3 tablespoons of oyster sauce

1 T. Sriracha

1 T. grape seeds or other neutral oil

8 medium garlic cloves, finely grated

1 teaspoon finely grated fresh ginger

3 tablespoons soy sauce, divided

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

4 6 oz. skinless cod, haddock or halibut fillets (each about 1 inch thick)

8 ounces shiitake mushrooms, hulled and thinly sliced

2 T. unseasoned rice vinegar

1 T. packed light or dark brown sugar

2 green onions, thinly sliced

In a shallow bowl or pie plate, whisk together the oyster sauce, Sriracha sauce, oil, garlic, ginger, 2 tablespoons of soy sauce and ½ teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Add the fillets and turn to coat, rubbing gently into the sauce. Add the mushrooms and toss until evenly coated. Marinate at room temperature for about 10 minutes.

Place a steamer basket in a large Dutch oven. Add enough water to fill the bottom of the pot without touching the basket. Remove the basket. Cover the pot and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.
Meanwhile, spray the steamer basket with cooking spray. Arrange the fish in an even layer in the basket and garnish the mushroom fillets, arranging them evenly. Return basket to pot, cover and steam over medium heat until fish flakes easily, 8 to 12 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, combine vinegar, sugar, remaining 1 tablespoon soy sauce and ¼ cup water. When the fish is cooked, use a thin metal spatula to transfer the fillets and mushrooms to a dish. Sprinkle with green onions and serve with the sauce on the side. Makes 4 servings.

(From “Milk Street: The New Rules” by Christopher Kimball. Used with permission from Little, Brown and Co., New York. All rights reserved.)

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Fry fish, baked fish, fish recipes, baked fish, walleye, pike, crappie

Large pickled pike

The old stand-by for all those who love marinated fish. If you are a fan of pickled fish, northern pike is the perfect fish to use for marinating. The finished pieces are firm and sweet. Great for parties and also makes a great snack.

Start the brine phase 1: 1 cup of salt for 1 liter of water. The pieces of fish soak for exactly 2 days.

Vinegar Brine Phase 2: Drain the starting brine – Do not rinse the pieces of fish. Soak in white vinegar, completely covered for 24 hours. After 24 hours, drain the vinegar – Do not rinse the pieces of fish.

Pike fillets cut into pieces about 1 inch square. Use a large plastic bowl and cover with enough liquid to completely submerge all of the pieces. Right: final solution, use a large marinade jar or plastic container like this Tupperware bowl, make sure the pieces are loosely wrapped and completely covered in liquid. In the final phase, the fish is ready to eat after about 5 days. But the finished product will last for several months in the refrigerator.

Finishing brine Phase 3: Mix 4 cups of white vinegar, 3 cups of sugar Heat to dissolve the sugar – Let stand until it cools Add 1 cup of white wine (Silver Satin preferably, but other wines “soft” whites will do) the mixture to cool well before adding it to the fish. Arrange the fish pieces and sliced ​​onions in a jar and cover with the pickling solution recipe, leave covered with pickling solution and soak for 1 week before eating. The fish will keep for several months in the refrigerator.

Smoked Fish – Basic Salt Brine Recipe

Basic brine mixture

5 lbs of canning / pickling salt
2 pounds of brown sugar
2 tablespoons of onion powder
1 tablespoon of garlic powder
1 TBSP Ground
2 tablespoons of Orogen

This recipe makes it possible to prepare several batches of smoked fish and can also be used for other meats. Mix well, store in tightly closed ziplock bags.

For me, 1 gallon freezer bags with 1-1 / 2 cups of powder in each are perfect.

To be used as a dry brine

Smoked TulibeesIn a large plastic bag, add about 1 cup of the dry mixture and shake the moistened powdered fish until well coated. Add small portions of dry brine as needed to prevent the mixture from becoming wet or “slush”. The coating should be uniform and thick. For larger whole fish, add powder inside the body cavity.

Place the fish in a suitable plastic, jar or glass container. While curing, store in the refrigerator. The hardening time depends on personal taste, 6 to 12 hours depending on the size of the fish and the desired salty taste.

To be used as a wet brine

Use a clean jar, glass container, or plastic bucket. Do not use a metal container. Combine 1-1 / 2 cups of powder in about 8 cups of water, stirring until well combined.

Check that the mixture is correct by dipping a peeled potato or a fresh uncooked egg in it. The egg or potato should float easily. If either does not float, add small amounts of powder until they float.

Place the fish in a liquid and use a glass plate to keep the pieces completely submerged. Soak 8 to 12 hours. Keep cool, stir occasionally.

* For either method, remove the dried fish pieces from the brine, rinse them in cold water and place them on a cookie sheet (s) lined with paper towels. Store the fish in the refrigerator and let dry until the outer skin is dry to the touch. When ready, smoke the fish for about 2.5 hours at 220-240 degrees.

Image links to the recipe for duck skewers

It’s a great way to “use” that last duck or two and also works well with pheasant and other wild game.

Grilling your ducks is the easiest, fastest, and most delicious way to serve up a great duck dinner.

Did you know that you can post your own helpful tips on our Facebook Fishing Reports page? YES! You can! You don’t have to tell us your secrets, go ahead and brag a bit when you get a whopper! Click >>> Minnesota Fishing Reports .
And … did you know that Jeff’s Thursday Morning show is available for two weeks after the air date? Yes, you will never need to miss the show. Click on the image, then select the time of 6:00 a.m. on Thursday. Scroll until around 6:20 am and you are in business! Link to KAXE audio archives

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Kayakers fish, cook and party on the north coast

The fleet departed on a cold, windy dawn, pushing through swells and fog at the mouth of the Albion River to the dark, choppy sea beyond. The men and women on board the craft, however, were not deterred by the adverse conditions.

They had a mission, and what the hell or very high seas they were going to accomplish – catch really big lingcod, cabezon, and rock cod; meet their friends and family at the campsite; cook their catch; and party late into the night. And, oh yes, reward the anglers who caught the biggest fish.

It was the most recent tournament sponsored by the NorCal Kayak Anglers, a convening of outdoor enthusiasts from northern California who combine two sports – boating and fishing – in a particularly intense and obsessive way.

Coastal kayak fishing has been around for over 20 years, but its popularity has grown steadily thanks to the Internet, and equipment and techniques have evolved with the interest of waxing. The Albion tournament drew over 140 participants who paddled in boats with garish names like Bloodbath, Cochino and No Soup 4U.

“If you look at it a certain way, you could say it all started when abalone divers started using sit-on-top kayaks as dive platforms in the 1980s,” said Craig Davis, the tournament organizer. “At one point we realized that we had to take our fishing rods with us. But from another point of view, it goes back much further than that. We carry on the traditions of the Inuit, who have fished with skin kayaking for thousands of years.

These traditions are drastically updated for the 21st century, of course. Today’s fishing kayaks bear little resemblance to the rudimentary boats of the 1980s, let alone Inuit skin boats. Made from durable rotomolded plastic, they are longer, wider and heavier than early sit-on-top kayaks.

Anglers generously customize their boats with electronic fish finders, brackets for fishing rods, nets and gaffs, and even live bait pits. Many don’t even use paddles; their boats are propelled by foot-driven underwater blades.

“This is actually the best solution if you are trolling,” said Steve Takagi, an angler from San Jose who once caught a 30-pound salmon dragging a rig of “krippled anchovies. “from his boat on foot. “It is practically impossible to troll well if you are paddling. “

North Coast kayak anglers also wear drysuits and personal flotation devices and carry two-way radios and GPS units. But while modern equipment certainly makes fishing more efficient, it hardly makes it as safe as milk.

This was evident during the Albion tournament, when the radio network crackled with emergency chatter shortly before noon. A very experienced paddler from Sacramento going through Mud Shark’s grip capsized. At the campsite, Davis and other event planners anxiously watched their radios, unsure if Mud Shark was okay. They visibly relaxed when they learned that he had been rescued. His boat, however, had been lost.

Back on shore, a soggy mud shark shared his story. It was spinning a fish when a wave knocked it off the boat.

“I was like, ‘No big deal. I’ve been here before, ”he said. “So I turned my kayak upside down and saw that the hatch cover had been blown off. The boat was sinking and I was bailed. Luckily another guy saw me and picked me up.

“It could have happened to anyone, my brother,” said one angler, hugging Mud Shark with obvious relief as several others whispered their assent. “It’s tough over there today.” Mud Shark’s kayak ran aground on shore a few days later and was returned to his home by another fisherman.

A deep camaraderie seems to be the most salient characteristic of the angling kayak community. On the eve of the tournament, fishermen and their families roamed freely between each other’s camps, sharing prodigious amounts of freshly caught seafood, flipping microbreweries and swapping fishing lines, some of which might have been true. At one site, a man distributed pieces of fried fillets from a halibut he had caught in Tomales Bay the day before. In another sprawling camp known as Shuland, named after founding brothers Dennis and Roger Shu, a huge pot of striped bass and Dungeness crab cioppino simmered on a propane burner while rib eyes crackled on a grill . At Glen Armas camp, a groaning plank of Filipino specialties was laid out for the enjoyment of passers-by.

“It’s a fishing competition, but it’s also a cooking competition,” Armas said. “If you’re hungry here, it’s your fault.

Indeed, the “competition” aspect of the tournament was underestimated in all respects. People were nominally interested in catching the bigger fish, but not in Donald Trump’s “winning” way.

“When we started, we offered $ 1,000 for the top prize,” Davis said. “But we attracted all these young singles who were only interested in making money. They went around the camps eating everyone’s food but didn’t bring any to share. So we took the cash incentive out of it. We want it to be about friends and family.

Davis showed off a cute little watercolor of the Highway One bridge spanning the Albion River.

“It’s the top prize this year,” he said.

The tournament also featured a raffle for a wealth of paddling and fishing gear, including two new kayaks. The proceeds of the raffle, approximately $ 3,500, were donated to the Albion-Little River Volunteer Fire Department.

Despite the bad weather, a lot of fish were caught. The boats began to drift towards the camp around noon for the 1 p.m. weigh-in. Fishermen were limited to grabbing their top three fish: ling cod, cabezon, and rockfish. There were lots of big cabezon and very big vermilion and black rockfish. A few lingcods appeared to be the length and girth of an average human leg.

David Batt of Santa Rosa won first prize with a bag weighing 22 pounds, 14 ounces in total. But the third, Naoaki Ikemiyagi of Sacramento, had the biggest fish of the day, a leviathan weighing 22 pounds.

A few of the fishermen were skunked, but no one complained.

“We all come from different places, different backgrounds,” said Andy Gomez, who calls himself Bait and Beer. “It’s not about killing fish. It is about love for the ocean, for a pure way of fishing and for each other. “

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Don’t bother to thaw the fish, instead do it frozen

Image of the article titled Don't Bother Thawing The Fish, Cook It From A Freezer

It’s good to know the correct way to defrost food, but when it comes to fish, save time and effort and cook it right from the freezer.

The Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute has an entire site dedicated to telling you to avoid thawing fish. You can poach, roast, broil, steam, grill or sauté frozen fish (honestly, Alaskan or not). Rinse off the ice crystals first.

In addition to the time saved without waiting for the fish to thaw, Cooking light suggests that there might be other benefits to this:

I tried it by rubbing a frozen fillet with my miso marinade and placing it under the grill. It took a bit of playing with the timing, but to my surprise, it worked like a charm. In fact, it worked even better than cooking thawed fillets, allowing me to keep more of the center of this lovely medium rare while still getting great char on the outside. It’s the ultimate healthy, easy, and, let’s face it, lazy dinner.

Who doesn’t like lazy dinners? (By the way, your steaks can also go from the freezer to the pan and come out wonderful.)

Cook it frozen!

photo by duck rf.

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